Saturday 24 July 2021

Lap of Pelion East – August 2020

Approaching Pelion Gap

In 2011, on an autumn mission to Kia Ora Falls and Castle Crag, I was walking the Overland Track just past Kia Ora hut around 11am.  An unlikely group of runners approached from the south.

The foursome had light packs and were moving freely and quickly compared with me and my full multi-day pack.  One of them kindly stopped and indulged my curiosity.  They had just run from Mersey Forest Road, through Lees Paddocks, up to the Overland Track and were now heading north to Pelion Hut, the Arm River Track and, finally, the Venetian Blind / Lees Paddocks Track back to their car.  They were completing what they dubbed, “The Lap of Pelion East.”

Wurragarra Creek before dawn.  Twin Spires and Cathedral Mountain attempt to shake their shroud.

Nine years later, Kylie and I were looking for a winter adventure following good snow falls a week earlier.  We decided on a combined mission to complete a trail running Lap of Pelion East followed by a three-day snow shoeing assault on Mount Ossa.

We dedicated a day to the drive up from Hobart with a stop in Oatlands to finish off some work before leaving projects, e-mails and phone calls behind.  Our accommodation that night was the Lees Paddocks Track car park ready for an early start.

Kylie powering up a hill before Wadley's Hut
At 5:30am we hit the trail and hit it fast!  Within an hour we had reached the Survey Creek gate marking the start of Lees Paddocks (or simply The Paddocks as the Lees family prefers to call them).  The sunrise was hidden behind the Cathedral Plateau and a light layer of morning cloud as we jogged along the park-like valley floor where the Mersey River meanders silently between grassy paddocks.  Several generations of mountain cattle folk have driven their herds into this valley for summer grazing and autumn low-intensity burning in a pattern gleaned from practices spanning countless generations of First Nations people maintaining these rich hunting grounds.

Reg Wadley Memorial Hut

Beyond Wadley’s Hut and Judy’s Top Paddock the route becomes indistinct.  It’s fine in the open myrtle forest but when tea tree thickets close in south of Pinestone Creek navigation can be tricky.    Recent tapes headed right (west) when Pinestone is reached.  I suspect they may lead to an upstream gorge where previous trips have proved a precarious, high-level tree can be negotiated to get over even in the biggest of winter floods.  On this occasion the flow was low enough to engage the ‘normal’ crossing – a wide slab just above the Pinestone-Mersey confluence.  However, there is no longer any sign of a track on the far side.  To make matters worse we headed towards the Mersey, drawn by the sound of impressive rapids where we were frustratingly denied a clear view by the overcrowded scrub.  The end result was 20 minutes to progress a mere 400 metres with zero altitude gain.  (That’s actually good going by Tassie standards where some scrub makes 100 metres per hour a substantial achievement!)  At a beautiful bend in the river we were on our way again.

Clinton surveying Pinestone Creek

Soon after the bend the route gradually moves away from the Mersey River and starts a steady climb, contouring its way to a crossing of Kia Ora Creek midway between the river and Kia Ora Falls.  Interestingly, soon after leaving the river we came across the recent line of tapes arriving from our right (north).  This appears to indicate a new route has been taped that avoids the tea tree section but, sadly, would also avoid the beautiful bend where the river tumbles spectacularly through a narrow channel.  As I write this I can see the new route is marked on Open Street Map which also shows the correct location of Pinestone Creek’s meeting with the Mersey.  Google Maps and Tasmania’s official government source of maps have Pinestone entering at the bend instead of where it actually enters roughly 400 metres downstream.  I digress!

Unnamed creek between Pinestone and Kia Ora


Our first encounter with Kia Ora Creek was a lively affair with Kylie swinging stylishly from a horizontal tree while icy waters lapped dangerously close to her nether regions.  The track is done with gentle contouring at this point and gains 100 metres in altitude in only 500 metres distance.  While that doesn’t sound much it’s the gradient of a Sky Race or Vertical Kilometre where you have to string ten of those bad boys in a row!  Incidentally, our total climb from the Mersey River to the Overland Track was 200 metres elevation gain over two kilometres which is the same gradient for mountain running championships where five of those are strung together.

Crossing Kia Ora Creek

At the Overland Track superhighway we swung north where snazzy bridges made our second encounters with the creeks Pinestone and Kia Ora smooth and uneventful.  On the approach to Pelion Gap care had to be taken with slippery, snow-covered boardwalks while the cloud lifted conveniently to show off the dazzling white slopes of Mounts Ossa, Doris and Pelion East.  Behind us the Du Cane Range was reluctant to shrug its misty mantle.

Mounts Ossa and Doris

Kylie at Pelion Gap
On the descent to Pelion Hut I remembered my last ‘running’ descent from the Gap (albeit it in the other direction) during the Cradle Mountain Run in 2018.  It’s downhill – it should be fast n easy.  Oddly, with two or three dozen k’s under my belt, even the downhill starts to be hard work.  Kylie was flying, seemingly oblivious to the previous 20 kilometres, while I battled the demons in my head and struggled to keep up.

Descending Pelion Gap

Over the next hour and a half we undulated our way past Lake Ayr and Reedy Lake with Mount Oakleigh slowly slipping behind us.  Next we engaged the steep and gorgeous descent, through tall, dark rainforest forest before emerging into brilliant sunshine at The Paddocks.  Even the Du Cane Range came out to enjoy the blue sky as we celebrated our completion of ‘the lap’.  Reluctantly we turned our backs on the view and retraced our early-morning steps returning to the car via Pine Hut Plain and the brief, final climb to the car.
Bishops Peak, Twin Spires, Cathedral Mountain, Castle Crag and Mount Massif (obscured) overlook a sunny Lees Paddocks and Hut

Pine Hut Plain, Mersey River, Premier Peak and Dean Bluff
A Strava record of our run can be found here: